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Beattie sturgis run

The Beattie Files: Long Road to Sturgis

It's circa 2001. We have Tommy’s famous Vegas bar room brawl, the Nymphs of Nephi and the world’s most expensive cheap promotional pens, sold by a stroppy Sheriff – this Beattie-ism has it all. It's a huge story and we recommend finding time to read it

(Ed's note: These are excerpts from young Beattie's book on some of the more colourful incidents in an action-packed life. See the end of the piece for more info.)


Published June 2025

Beattie sturgis run


“Hey you, stop right there!” I heard as I attempted to stroll nonchalantly past the parked cop bike, with its lights still flashing, on the darkened Las Vegas back street. Even though it was late at night, it still felt hot enough to fry an egg on the cracked pavement.
 
Crouched in the gutter was my mate Tommy, arms cuffed behind his back. His lady, Leanne, was leaning on Tommy’s custom Harley, clearly upset.
 
I stopped in my tracks and slowly turned.
 
“You’re that clown in the truck, aren’t ya?” barked the State Trooper, pointing a gloved finger in my direction. “Get over here right now. Your friend here is coming back to jail with me,” he said, looking down at Tommy (pictured above), “And you should probably be going with him,” he added as he went through the contents of Tommy’s jacket.
 
Our Las Vegas misadventure had begun innocently enough a few days earlier when my good buddy and occasional partner in crime, Mark and I had caught up with Tommy at a bar just off the Strip near the centre of town. We’d ridden up from LA that day on a couple of test bikes supplied by Harley-Davidson with our final destination being the famous Sturgis Rally in the Black Hills of South Dakota. At the time I was founding publisher and current editor of Heavy Duty magazine, Australia’s only Harley-dedicated publication. Our plan was to write up both bikes and also run a piece on the incredible Sturgis bike rally, which is a kind of Disney Land for bikers.
 
We’d allowed around five days for the ride, including an overnight stop with Tommy, who had been living in Vegas for a few years. He had built up a successful interstate trucking business and was doing quite well for a wild colonial boy from Down Under.
 
It was getting towards the end of July and the run up from LA through the desert had seen temperatures soar into the high 40s centigrade. Given the heat, we were keen to make the four and a half hour run in quick time, as, it seemed, did the rest of the traffic headed east. Pleasingly, Americans have a very relaxed attitude to freeway speed limits and even cruising at 80mph (130kph) we still had plenty of people flying past in the fast lane. But the searing hot wind in our faces soon had us stopping at every gas station and diner just to pour a bottle of chilled water in our helmets to cool things down.
 
By the time we pulled up at the bar a couple of blocks back from the Strip in Vegas we were covered in road grime and dust and in urgent need of an ice-cold beer. It was fortunate that Tommy was part owner in the bar, which meant we got VIP treatment as soon as we walked in.
 
“Fuck me, you’re getting even uglier as you get older!” came a rasping voice I recognized from behind the bar. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness the image of Tommy, cold beers in hand, came into view.
 
“Tell ya story pouring,” I replied. “A bloke could die of thirst waiting for a beer around here for fuck’s sake!”
 
It was a mid-week night so the bar wasn’t too packed, although the clientele did seem a little distracted as we brushed the dust off and dragged our tired bodies up to the bar.
 
“Fucking good to see ya mate,” said Tommy, giving me a big welcoming hug. “And this must be Mark. How ya goin’ mate,” he said, passing us two cold Coronas.
 
Tommy had moved to the States a few years earlier after spending most of his younger years moving in outlaw club circles back in Australia. Now in his late 30s, the solidly built and fit truckie still had the look and demeanour of someone who had earned his battle scars, of which he had his fair share.
 
Weirdly, his little drinking establishment was surfer-themed, which seemed a bit odd on a couple of levels. Most obviously because we were in the middle of a desert several hundred miles from the nearest wave break. But also because of Tommy’s background with one per cent motorcycles clubs, which generally weren’t known for their love of saltwater and the great outdoors. Surfboards, ocean murals, fake seaweed and other beachy-type ornaments adorned the walls and the waitresses were all dressed in tiny bikinis.
 
We spent the next hour or so catching up on each other’s exploits, laughing too loud and making spectacles of ourselves in front of the bar’s patrons. Eventually, Tommy suggested we relocate to his pad, just a couple of miles away.
 
As we mounted up out the front, Tommy pulled up in his brand new and very black Ford 150 Harley-Davidson Limited Edition pick-up truck.
 
“Follow me and try to keep up,” he laughed, leaving two black tyre marks as he disappeared into the night in a cloud of tyre smoke.
 
A few minutes later we were unloading the bikes in his garage. While I was expecting a modest apartment, it turned out Tommy had done even better than I’d heard. As we made our way up the central spiral staircase, he explained that his eight-bedroom mansion was actually essential for his trucking business as his home was the overnight stop for his fleet of six big rigs as they crisscrossed the western states of the US. At any given time, he could have up to four drivers sleeping over as they waited for their next load.
 
Tommy explained that he had a small crew of Kiwi and Aussie truckies who ran his rigs across the country and loved them for their ability to make-do if or when the shit hit the fan.
 
“I just have to hand the Aussies and Kiwis a shifter and a hammer and they can rebuild a fucking Kenworth or Mack on the side of the road and be on their way in a coupla hours. No contest.”
 
The two storeys of Tommy’s north Las Vegas house were arranged in a circular layout, with a large central staircase and atrium acting as the hub. Almost everything was painted white. The styling theme was Florida Coke Dealer – Al Pacino’s coked-up Tony Montana (Scarface) wouldn’t have looked out of place unloading a pair of M16s off the top balcony.
 
There was plenty of Aussie paraphernalia on the walls, including framed AFL footy jerseys and quite a few photos of Tommy from his younger days on various bikes and with a varied selection of lady friends.
 
Once we’d packed our gear away, Tommy opened up the bar and we spent the rest of the night listening as he cracked us up with tales of his trucking and other exploits in the US. He also showed us some photos of a custom Harley he’d just had built by a local bike shop, and I told him that we weren’t leaving town until we’d done a magazine photoshoot with it for Heavy Duty.


Beattie sturgis run
 
“No fucking worries, I’ll call the guys tomorrow and have it detailed,” said Tommy. “Actually, I know just the spot to shoot it, too. They reckon it’s where the mafia used to bury all the bodies. There are big cactus plants and all the other desert shit, so it’ll look pretty cool. I’ll bring my girl Leanne along in case you want a model. And just for fun, I’ll pack a few guns and ammo and we can have a little target practice.”
 
After packing a couple of shotguns and an AK47 assault rifle into the truck, we had breakfast back at the bar and headed off to pick up the bike with Leanne and Tommy. Leanne was dressed appropriately in tight, black leather and with her long blonde hair would look stunning straddling the bike in the Nevada desert.
 
It was starting to heat up, with hot air shimmering off the pavement as we hit the freeway. A few minutes later we pulled up at a bike shop on the industrial outskirts of Vegas. There were a handful of customs and choppers parked out front and a couple of guys checking them out.
 
“Hey amigo, who you got with you?” said a large brown tattooed bloke who looked like he might have just snuck across the border from Mexico.
 
“Hey Pancho, these are my good buddies from Australia, Chris and Mark. They are bad boys so make sure you keep the women locked up until we leave,” joked Tommy.
 
Pancho obviously knew we were coming because as we followed him into the shop he turned, suddenly wide-eyed and full of attitude, and pulled out the biggest hunting knife I’d ever seen, holding it millimetres from my face. Before I could react, he said: “That’s not a knife … this is a knife!” with what I reckon is still one of the worst fake Australian accents I’ve ever heard.
 
“Ha, ha …” laughed Tommy as I tried to recover my composure. “Crocodile Dundee is one of Pancho’s favourite movies. He doesn’t get to pull the knife routine often, so I let him know we had a couple of Aussies aboard when I called him this morning.”
 
“That’s one more I’ve got to even up with you for,” I said, throwing a mock right at Tommy as we walked through into the workshop.
 
All was forgotten, though as Pancho pulled the covers off a shiny, low and black custom Harley. It had the aggressive lines of a street fighter, with a matching lightning strike custom paint job. Plenty of work had gone into the engine and it cackled and spat as Tommy started it up and gave it some revs.
 
“So whatdya reckon? Worth a photo or two, bro?” yelled Tommy over the rumble of the straight-out exhausts.
 
“Mate, I’m definitely looking at our next cover bike, I reckon,” I said.
 
As Tommy rode it out to the street, I was already wiping sweat off my brow. It seemed even hotter than our ride up from LA and it was still only around 10am.
 
“Follow me blokes,” yelled Tommy as we pulled up behind him in the truck.
 
We drove for about 20 miles straight out into the desert, the road getting windier and narrower until it finally turned into a dirt track at the base of some foothills. Tommy stopped just before the dirt, and I pulled up next to him.
 
“The mafia graveyard’s just up ahead,” he said. “I’ll go first so I don’t ride through your dust … nice and slow so we won’t have to wipe the bike down too much before you do the pics. And if ya see any guys in dark suits with shovels, better keep going,” he laughed.
 
A couple of hundred metres further on, the track wound around to the right into what looked like a pocket-size Grand Canyon, complete with desert cactus plants and what looked like a couple of bleached white steer’s skulls – a perfect spot for a Heavy Duty photoshoot, I thought. Or a quiet burial.
 
By this time the sun was almost directly overhead, and it was definitely much hotter than yesterday.
 
“Fuck me!” said Mark, “Check out the outside temperature!” he added, pointing to the dash display. “Fifty-two fucking degrees for fuck’s sake! Fuck blazing away with the guns mate. Let’s just get the photos done and get the fuck back to the pool!”
 
Apart from having to cool the seat down with bottled water every time we posed Leanne with the bike, the shoot went smoothly – aside from Leanne’s make-up melting after about 30 seconds in the blistering sun. We kept the truck running with the air-cond set on ‘Arctic’ and after one of the quickest cover shoots I’d done, we were back on the road and headed back to Tommy’s, where we spent a pleasant afternoon chilling in the pool and enjoying cold Coronas.
 
“Dinner’s on me tonight,” announced Tommy as we emerged from an afternoon nap. “I’ve let the bar chef know we’re coming so he’ll have some nice thick New York sirloins on the grill when we get there.”
 
By the time we rode up to the bar the desert night had set in, the dry wind nudging waves of sand across the car park. As I slowed, Tommy rode up next to me. “Follow me,” he said, nodding in the direction of the bar.
 
As I followed, he rode up onto the sidewalk, before nudging open the swinging western doors and riding his bike inside. I followed suit, with Mark behind me. Directly ahead, Tommy pulled up right in front of the bar and gestured for us to park either side. The bikes were making a hell of a racket inside the bar and shocked patrons stared up from their meals as the three hairy bikers finally switched off their motors and took off their helmets.
 
“No point in owning a bar if ya can’t park ya bike in it,” grinned Tommy as he ordered three more Coronas.
 
We knocked off the first round sitting on the bikes, with patrons and staff walking around them as best they could.
 
Later we moved to the back of the bar where Tommy had our table waiting and enjoyed the sumptuous sirloins the chef had prepared.
 
Washing down our meals with a couple of bourbons, we were interrupted by one of the waitresses, who whispered into Tommy’s ear, pointing to a couple on the other side of the bar.
 
“Excuse me blokes,” said Tommy. “Seems like we got a bit of a situation. I’ll be back in a minute.”
 
Knowing Tommy’s tendency to shoot first and not give a flying fuck about questions afterwards, I watched on warily as he strolled casually across the bar. He was soon engaged in what looked like a heated discussion with the black guy, who was gesticulating and raising his voice.
 
As Tommy stomped back to our table, I could tell the conversation had not gone well.
 
“See that big fucker over there,” he said, pointing straight at the guy he’d just been talking to, who was now glaring in our direction. “He reckons because we rode our nasty, noisy motorcycles into the bar, he shouldn’t have to pay for his or his girlfriend’s meals. I told him I’d take a vote with my mates and let him know the verdict.”
 
“Fuck him,” spat Mark.
 
“I’m with him,” I said, nodding to Mark.
 
“Right answer! Okay, Chris you take the door in case he tries to run and you stick with me Mark.” whispered Tommy, watching the black guy warily as he talked. “By the way, I forgot to mention I’ve seen this prick before. He’s about six foot five and weighs around 250 pounds. Make every hit count boys.”
 
As I made my way over to the front door, I watched Tommy and Mark out of the corner of my eye.
 
“Looks like you’re out of luck, sucker,” said Tommy, the guy attempting to stand up as Tommy grabbed one end of the table and overturned it on top of him. At the same time his girlfriend leapt to her feet, screaming and pounding on Tommy’s back. Mark managed to grab her around the waist, but she was one big mama and was being a real handful, yelling and stamping her feet.
 
With the guy attempting to get out from under the furniture, Tommy leapt over the upturned table swinging. He managed a couple of quick headshots before the guy got him in a headlock. Meanwhile, the rest of the bar was in chaos. Patrons who hadn’t already fled the scene were standing around enjoying the show and yelling encouragement.
 
“Give the fucker one for me, Tommy,” said one.
 
“Whack him with this,” said another, reaching out to hand Tommy, who had managed to slip out of the head-hold, a large ornamental clam shell from the bar.
 
Instead, Tommy reached for a bar stool and smashed it down legs-first over the guy’s head. He was leaning on the stool with all his weight to prevent the guy lifting his head off the floor, but next minute Tommy was going back down, with the big chick jumping on his back from behind. She’d slipped out of Mark’s grasp and was now riding Tommy’s back and trying her best to gouge out his eyes.
 
Meanwhile, her boyfriend had managed to scramble to his feet and while Mark was trying to pry the lady off Tommy’s back, he was throwing kicks at Tommy’s head.
 
“Don’t move a muscle fucker!” said the chef, holding what looked to be an impressively large, old west-style revolver that he was pointing at Mr Angry’s head. As far as Dirty Harry impersonations go, it was right up there I reckoned.
 
It had a definite instant calming effect on proceedings, which was just as well as by now I’d managed to grab the fire extinguisher off the wall near the front door and was preparing to give angry black guy a white powder facial, once I’d figured out the instructions.
 
At the same time, there was a commotion out the front. Somebody must have called the cops as it seemed like half the Las Vegas police force was now parked in front of the bar, all flashing blue lights and blazing headlights.
 
Before we could react, a group of cops came rushing through the door, guns drawn and yelling for everyone to hit the floor. Meanwhile, I was still bent over trying to pull out the safety pin on the fire extinguisher.
 
“Drop the weapon … now!” yelled one of the cops, pointing his police issue automatic at the chef who, wisely complied.
 
Another cop marched over to me and grabbed the fire extinguisher.
 
“What were you planning on doing with that?” he demanded.
 
“Just cooling things down a little,” I managed.
 
“Don’t fuckin’ move,” he growled.
 
As the bar filled up with more cops and medics, who were tending to a couple of serious cuts on Mr Angry’s face, the boss cop explained that no one was leaving the bar until he said so.
 
Over the next hour or so people were interviewed, photos and notes were taken and eventually, much to the annoyance of him and his girlfriend, Tommy’s disgruntled and battered customer was led away in cuffs.
 
After a lengthy discussion with Tommy, the cops took another good look around before leaving. We spent the next hour or so helping to clean up the mess.
 
Over a bourbon or two at the end of the night, and with Tommy nursing a nasty bite wound on his ear, he explained that the cops told him the offender was already known to them, and his specialty was skipping out on meals and drinks without paying. Nevertheless, they cautioned Tommy for his part in the brawl, but said no charges would be laid. They also said they’d be keeping a closer eye on him and his bar from now on.
 
“Fuck, that’s the last thing I need,” he said, gulping down another Jack. “I can’t afford too much close attention as far as the immigration department goes. I’ve already been kicked out once. If they spring me again, they’ll probably give me some Federal time.”
 
The next morning, we decided a quiet day wouldn’t go astray for our last day in Vegas, and we happily lounged by the pool, enjoying an Aussie-style barbecue lunch and another afternoon nap. With the sun going down, Tommy announced that we’d head into the iconic Harley-Davidson Café on the Strip for a last night dinner right in the heart of the action. It seemed like a fitting finale to what had already been a pretty eventful and exciting couple of days. Little did we know there was more to come …
 
“It’s such a great night honey, how about I come home with you on the bike,” said Leanne as we sorted out the bill and tip and headed for the café door.
 
“Yeah mate, me and Mark will drive the truck back,” I volunteered.
 
As I backed Tommy’s F150 out of the car park, he waved us over.
 
“Is there a spare helmet in the crew cab?” he asked.
 
“Not that I can see,” said Mark.
 
“Fuck it hon, you take my helmet and I’ll ride lid-less,” said Tommy, unclipping his helmet and handing it to Leanne on the back of the bike.
 
The State of Nevada has a compulsory helmet law, carrying a hefty fine for non-compliance. But Tommy figured we only had a short trip home, so decided to sling the dice and take his chances.
 
As we swung a right onto the Strip behind Tommy, I looked to my left. “Fuck, there’s a cop!” I said, pointing to the other side of the intersection. Just as I did, the blue light started flashing on the rear of the cop’s bike.
 
Tommy was far enough ahead that he hadn’t seen the cop, who was still stuck at the intersection waiting for a green light. But it was only a few seconds before he’d turned and was coming up rapidly behind us.
 
We’d just entered a road works section with witches hats funnelling traffic down from three lanes to one and as I attempted to locate the cop in my mirror I looked over at Mark.

“See if you can tell me which side the cop is going to try and pass on,” I said. “Let’s see if we can give Tommy a head start.”
 
I was driving as slowly as I could without being too obvious.
 
“He’s coming down my side,” said Mark, looking in the right-side mirror.
 
I moved the truck to the right, trying to give him as little room as possible between the truck and the curb.
 
“Now he’s switched over to your side,” he said.
 
I pulled the wheel to the left as a bridge support loomed, leaving no room for the cop to get past.
 
I pulled a couple of more weaves, but eventually the cop saw a gap and managed to race past us, glaring at me through the window as he did.
 
Inevitably, half a mile up the road the flashing blue light came to a stop. As we drove past, I could see Tommy getting off the bike and what appeared to be a very excited cop walking towards him.
 
I saw a right turn coming up and as I turned the corner there was a 7-Eleven across the road. I pulled in and jumped out of the truck.
 
“You stay here and I’ll go back and see what’s going on with Tommy and Leanne,” I said to Mark.
 
Which is when, for the second time in 24 hours, I became acquainted with Nevada State Trooper Chandler. It was just plain dumb luck that Chandler had also been one of the attending officers at the previous night’s bar brawl. In fact, it was he who had taken an interest in the fire extinguisher I was holding when he burst into the bar.
 
Doing my best impersonation of an innocent Aussie abroad, I had attempted to stroll past the unfolding drama ahead, when he recognized me.
 
“Hey you!” he said, obviously referring to me.
 
I turned as he motioned me to approach him.
 
“You stand right here while I deal with your buddy. And don’t move a muscle.”
 
As he waited for a back-up car to arrive and transport Tommy to the Las Vegas Country Jail, he had a parting word of advice.
 
“Now you listen to me good,” he hissed, squinting into my face. “Your friend’s life is about to get real complicated and you’ve come to my attention twice already in the last 24 hours. To me that says you and your buddies are trouble. I’d advise you and your partner in the truck to get as far away from Vegas tonight as you can. I’m giving you a head start, but if see you on the streets after tonight, you’re both gonna join your friend here. Am I clear?”
 
“As a bell,” I replied, before turning to Tommy.
 
“I’ll get Leanne home and check in with you later, bro,” I said.
 
The next morning, we waited for Leanne to return from the jail for an update before we packed up our bikes. It turned out the cops had run a background check on Tommy and had uncovered some priors – and the fact that it appeared he was also an illegal alien.
 
As we mounted up, I put my arm around Leanne.
 
“You let me know if you need anything hon,” I said. “Same goes for Tommy. I’ve got to get to Sturgis, but if I can do anything at all, you make sure you get word to me.”
 
It was a couple of months before we finally heard that Tommy had been taken into Federal custody for the immigration breach and was eventually sentenced to six months in a Federal penitentiary at Marion, Ohio. On release, he was immediately deported to Australia, without appeal.
 
I caught up with him at a bike show in Sydney a few years later. Over a couple of beers, he explained that his downfall came when the cops found three different IDs in his jacket and wallet. With suspicions raised, they did some background checking and a couple of weeks later Tommy was transferred to the custody of Federal immigration officials for a six-month vacation courtesy of the US government.
 
Ultimately, though, Tommy was philosophical about his time in Las Vegas.
 
“Fuck it, I knew they were gonna grab me sooner or later,” he said. “It was a fucking helluva good ride while it lasted though,” he grinned. “Such is life, eh.”
 
Our adventure didn’t end in Las Vegas – for Mark and I at least. We still had to get to Sturgis and since we’d spent more time with Tommy and Leanne than we’d planned, we had a bit of time to make up. We still had 1600km or so to cover so we were keen to hit the road, but that didn’t stop us checking out a few scenic highlights along the way.
 
An hour or so east of Vegas we crossed the Nevada-Utah state border, losing our helmets for the first time since our journey had begun back in LA. Helmet laws vary from state to state in the US and given the extreme summer heat we opted to shed our lids as we veered off the interstate and into the awe-inspiring Zion National Park in the south-western corner of Utah.
 
We spent several hours carving our way through the majestic canyons and ridges of the park, arriving eventually at the small burg of Nephi, just south of Salt Lake City. After a day on the road, we were ready for an early night, but the womenfolk of Nephi had other plans, it seemed.
 
“Excuse me, but my friends and I were just wondering where you guys are from?” smiled the pretty young brunette, who looked all of 18 in her tight halter top and torn denim shorts. Next to her sat a group of giggling girls, sharing burgers, fries and milkshakes in the small diner we’d chosen for dinner.
 
“Australia, honey,” grinned Mark as we worked our way through yet another greasy roadside meal.
 
“Rrrrr-sum!” gushed our new friend, as she turned back to her friends. “They’re from Rrrrstralia!” she said, followed by more giggling.
 
“Wow, you’re Ossseys! Hey, do you know that Crocodile guy? He is soooo cool!” gushed a particularly cute blonde.
 
“So, are those your motorcycles?” asked another. “They look soooo cool!”
 
“Yeah, it would be soooo rrrrr-sum to go for a ride!” chimed in the blonde.
 
Lesser men would have succumbed to the temptations of the Nymphs of Nephi that night, but a few hectic days in Vegas had already taken their toll, so we uncharacteristically ignored their pleas for a ride in favour of an early night in preparation for a big next day on the road.
 
But our encounter with Nephi’s nubility did reinforce the observation that the ‘Osssey’ accent could be employed for both good and evil in the USA …
 
We left early the next morning for the climb over the magnificent Rocky Mountains, crossing into Wyoming for our next destination of the historic wild west town of Jackson Hole, at the foothills of the equally impressive Grand Tetons range.
 
By now, we were seeing groups of other Harley-mounted riders who were, like us, Sturgis-bound. Jackson Hole marked the approximate halfway point in our trip and as we soon realised, it was ready, willing and more than able to provide a suitable welcome for wandering packs of bikers.
 
“Hey, you ain’t Ossseys are ya?” inquired the grizzled looking, bearded sixty-something biker as I ordered two beers at one of the western-themed bars lining Jackson Hole’s main street. He had a black patch over his left eye and looked like he’d done a few hard miles in his time.
 
The bar was already jumping as more and more bikers arrived to join the party.
 
“Sure am,” I said. “We’re headed to Sturgis. How about you?”
 
He halted for a second, seemingly deciding whether or not to continue the conversation.
 
“Well, my Osssey friend, I’m hopin’ to,” said Dan Waller, shaking hands and introducing himself. “Mind if I join ya?”
 
Mark and I made room for him at our small table and shared the sort of idle chit chat most bikers do about their time on the road.
 
As the night progressed, Dan shared his story. He was from the north-west, up the coast from Seattle, and he’d attended around 25 Sturgis rallies as best as he could remember. “Hard to tell, now that I think of it,” he reflected. He was softly spoken and gave me the impression that he had a bit on his mind.
 
“But this is gonna be my last. Got the cancer,” he said, patting his eye patch. “Doctor told me I had six months. That was a year ago, so I reckon I’m on borrowed time,” he added, peering into his glass with his one good eye.
 
“Me and my old riding brother, Sam were going to do this last one together, but Sam fell off the perch a few months back. Got leukemia and was gone within a coupla weeks,” he said, shaking his head. “Sam and I enlisted together and did two tours of ’Nam. Came across a few Ossseys over there. Good fighters and even better drinkers as I recall …”
 
The conversation seemed to be taking a melancholy turn, and both Mark and I glanced at each other, wondering whether to leave Dan to his thoughts.
 
“I’m riding Sam’s old ’72 Shovel to the rally in honour of our friendship and love,” said Dan. “So would you two Osssey mates do me and Sam the honour of sharing a Jack Daniels or two,” he smiled, finally seeming to lighten up a little.
 
We spent the next few hours toasting Dan and his fallen brother in arms and vowing to catch up at Sturgis. I don’t recall much more of the night, but was grateful that Dan had shared his story with his two Osssey mates. Our paths never did cross again, but I hoped Dan made good on his mission to honour the memory of his lost brother.
 
The next day, flanked by the spectacular, snow-capped Grand Tetons range, we headed for another old-west town, this time the small burg of Cody. It would be a packed day, including encounters with various wildlife in Yellowstone National Park and also with one Sheriff Joe Arzi of the Wyoming State Highway Patrol. I had apparently attracted Joe’s attention after blasting by him at a vastly greater velocity than local limits allowed. At the time I was sweeping down from the imposing Big Horn Mountains and thought I’d give the big cruiser some wide-open throttle, since it seemed there was little traffic around.
 
There was a long downhill straight up ahead, so I wound it on. As I flew past a line of on-coming cars I glanced down at the speedo, with the needle swaying between 105 and 120mph. Looking up, I was just in time to see the black and white cruiser flash past, his brake lights suddenly flaring in my rearview mirror.
 
“So, what’s the big hurry,” demanded the tall, crisply uniformed figure. He’d chased me for about five miles after executing a hurried U-turn and I sensed he was in no mood for bullshit. “You got your licence on you?” he growled.
 
I looked at his big cruiser, which had a bold “Vote for Sheriff Joe Arzi” sign emblazoned down the side. I noted it matched the name tag over his breast pocket.
 
“Here ya go mate,” I said, brandishing my thickest, cheeriest accent. At the same time Mark finally caught up and pulled over. His arrival seemed to put our uniformed companion on edge.
 
“He with you?” he queried, glancing suspiciously at Mark.
 
“Yep, we’re heading to Sturgis,” I explained.
 
“Hmmm … that right?” said Sheriff Joe, inspecting my licence. “Says here you’re from Australia. I got some good friends from Sydney come over and stay with me in the ski season,” he added. “Drink me out of beer every time, but we have some great fun together,” he smiled.
 
A silence followed, as a light breeze rustled through the prairie grass.
 
It seemed Sheriff Joe was starting to chill a little – until he returned to the reason we all happened to be standing on the side of the road in this remote patch of Wyoming farm country.
 
“Anyway, so I reckon I had you at about 110mph coming from up off the mountains,” he said from behind his aviator shades. “That is enough to put you in jail until the county judge visits in a couple of days, and you’ll probably be hit with a $300 fine and bond,” he added, pausing for grim effect.
 
With the sun beating down, his last comment had me sweating even harder. Having narrowly avoided jail time in Las Vegas a couple of days earlier, I definitely hadn’t allowed for a stopover in a Wyoming jail in our Sturgis schedule.
 
“So how about this.” he continued. “You seem like a decent coupla guys. Eighty miles an hour gets you a $75 on-the-spot fine. You can swipe your card right now in the cruiser and I’ll even throw in a couple of Vote for Joe pens.”
 
“Done!” I said, relieved that I wouldn’t be Sheriff Joe’s guest for the next two days.
 
“Right answer, by the way!” he replied, taking my credit card. “The jail food is terrible. I should know – my wife is the cook …”


Beattie sturgis run
 
He was even decent enough to pose for a mock souvenir photo pretending to cuff me as I leaned over the bonnet of his car. As Mark took the photo it occurred to me it might have been for real if I’d come up with the wrong answer.
 
Seventy-five dollars lighter, we headed off to complete our last day on the road before the beginning of the legendary Sturgis Rally…

Beattie sturgis run


(ends)



More at The Beattie Files home page


beattie book

The excerpt is from Beattie's wild and woolly book. So far as we know it's had one brief print run and he's threatening to do another. Watch this space.

In the meantime he can be contacted by email.

More at The Beattie Files home page



Travels with Guido columns here

More features here

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